Nadine Jansen On The Pool

Staging yard (first part)

The design of the model will undergo a change.

In order to increase the opportunities for exercise, namely to allow the game simultaneously with two crew made up of two players each, along with Denny decided that I will develop a model L, with a fixed module (that already made) and a mobile that will be placed aside as provided in the old project and during the game will be the continuation of the existing east side.
The staging yard - just one - will be located on the west side and will, as before, be mobile, because it is located opposite the entrance door of the bedroom.
To achieve the staging I, therefore, concerned to find, in the first logo, solutions, coupling / uncoupling of the staging, which may prove faster and safer for the safety of rail vehicles.
for attaching the head to the staging of the form I solved with the help of a metal L-bracket on the anchor bracket and part of which was excised (The red line is the cutoff).


The bracket is then secured with four screws as photos.


The L-bracket was anchored to the floor of the staging (list of fir planed perfectly flat section 2x9, 5 cm and 130 cm length) with two wood screws. Hook once installed no games of any kind.


The support on the opposite side of the staging was, however, solved with solutions similar to those used for anchoring the module (stick to the wall and swing arm) and with the help of this accessory.


In this case, the anchor is stable.

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How to eliminate the cracks at the base of the buildings

Richard Oliver writes in May 2003 on TTM: "... a mistake ... (and very common on plastic) relates to the arrangement of buildings on the ground. I've noticed with alarming continuity, whether live or on specialized publications, homes and buildings quasivoglia type (maybe played with admirable commitment and precision) that literally "flying" on the ground with a clear separation along the line of the basis for an imperfect bonding. Which in itself denotes a particular absolute lack of realism because each building (which is not a Canadian) is obviously always linked with ground continuity along the walls .... "
Since then I have never failed to notice this particular realization though, to be fair, the papers published in foreign periodicals like Model Railroader and other affiliates, Loco Revue (those that usually read) is quite unusual to see similar shortcomings.
To avoid unforgivable mistake, since my first property I have, therefore, sought a method and a particular product, simply, I will remove any cracks that affect to a greater or lesser degree all the kit building / facilities or all of these couplings between the ground of the model / diorama.
right now I have discarded the traditional "pro" continuous grass because, in truth, rarely has a property vegetation throughout its entire perimeter.
Wanting to give priority to ease of use, I also deleted modeling products such as stucco or wood putty because of their low adhesion, because fewer workers than other solutions may require sands of Tura and color are often not suitable (for Milliput Superfine example is white and, therefore, when applied calls for a touch of color appearance of the treated area).
fillers are not suitable for buildings when they mate on the basis of clay and those of finer texture, however, would require several applications to fill the slots that are marked.
Even in this case use of "cousins" plasimodellisti and borrowed a very simple method that they use to eliminate some of the cracks between the joints with a kit of parts, namely the use of glue.
In this case the grouting operation is very smooth and quick.
Starting with a building already glued to the base.

with a toothpick apply a small amount of glue around the perimeter.

Remove the excess with a moistened Q-tips water without leaving too much pressure on the junction that is produced in abundance slightly (the glue in contrast to the stucco loses In fact, a lot of volume when dried, so that the larger cracks may require more applications). With the same method I also plastered the junction of walls and roof of the building.

The next day, the work can be completed with a dirtying the base of the building with pigments or the like.

If you do not want to use when aging and the classic appearance of the dried glue (white / gray semi-transparent) should not be compatible with that of the building or the land is sufficient to add the glue, before its application a small amount of acrylic color color-compatible with the parties to be filled, possibly by preceding the application from a test on materials Waste choosing the right colors.

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Installing fascia and drawers knobs

In recent days I have had the opportunity to continue their work. With lists
wooden square 2x2 cm and 9 cm Length of tray I made the headband.

In masonite strips of 10 cm in height and at the cable pullers, I played the holes with hole saw 38 mm in diameter.


The edge of the holes was then sanded and reinforced with touches of very diluted white glue. With the same glue (and only with the help of clamps and weights), I then set the bands at the front of the module.


the corners of the module lists masonite were connected together using wooden rods 3 mm in diameter, glued and grouted (always with only glue) as shown in photo.


The choice of the knobs of drawers fell on this model that has a central hole of 4 mm.


To apply all the knobs at the same distance from the perimeter of the module list and perfectly perpendicular to it was enough to insert between the knob and the list of constant wall thickness.


The difference between the diameter of the cable puller (2 mm) and the knob hole (4 mm) allows easy centering of the handle during installation. The use of superglue gel helps in the operation of fine tuning.


staining band will run only in the finished plastic.